Everest Base Camp

Everest Base Camp – Day 4

🎵 little talks – Julia Sheer, John D



Early start for us! We found ourselves walking out of our hotel at 06h am. The earlier you start the longer you get to enjoy the view before it gets cloudy. The air is also fresh and cooler and it is nicer to walk and carry your pack. Once the sun comes out you can feel the temperature rising quickly.


We left and we were again alone on the path. Alone with this beautiful view, alone other than this little dog following us like if that dog knew where we were going and would be tagging along as he normally does with early bird trekkers.

So the 3 of us started with a set of stairs that were already pretty steep. Although we did the acclimatization yesterday this time with our 12-13 kg backpack the stairs were making our breath short already. But it’s okay. When I was at the Buddhist place my ‘monk friend’ told me ‘slowly slowly’ when I told him about the course being slightly overwhelming with new information. ‘Slowly slowly’ he had said to me in a really calm voice. I found myself hearing his voice on this trek telling me ’Slowly slowly’.

The view was just breath taking. And the feeling of being alone on this trek made it extra special. We are really just a particle in this humongous earth. I felt so little surrounded by these gigantic peaks who stood there. We walked 1-2h and stopped for breakfast.


The girl at the little restaurant informed us that the man that had given us direction yesterday in the trail was her dad (the random man on a horse that showed up when we were unsure of our path!).

With a belly full of food when kept on walking. We had to walk down a pretty steep hill to go across a river to than go back up another hill.

As I was crossing the bridge that separated the 2 mountains hearing the river below me and looking up to the mountains I thought ‘why do I do this?’. Why am I here? I find I had almost resent before people that would push their body for trekking. I never understood it. I use to ask myself; What do they have to prove? But now I got it. Or at least I got why I am doing this. To explore this beautiful place that we call earth 🌏. We actually push our body everyday with stress, with apprehension, with expectations, with goals … how was that any different than pushing oneself to go up a mountain? But I felt that I was pushing myself in a good healthy way. Slowly slowly one step at a time. Yes there was a final destination but taking it all in a day at a time. I was doing well. I felt at peace and enjoying the moment and not worrying about the weather or worrying about where we would stay. No my mind was calm and here. My mind was where my body was and I felt pretty proud of being able to enjoy each step of this journey.


I felt that my strive to discovery this country was taking over the goal of making it to ‘base camp’. I wanted to discover the people and those villages. I wanted to take the time look at how they were living.


What you gain from trekking

Everyday I felt I was gaining more and more confidence in myself. It felt so nice. So nice to improve without reading on a self-help book that teaches you how to build confidence. I was just doing this and somehow my confidence in myself was building up. Without really trying to build it. By picking up my backpack every morning with no one else to carry my stuff and just being here with nature and facing new challenges and learning to listen to my body and mind to a new level. It felt so good. I felt so at peace.

As I was crossing the bridge over the river, I took a few deep breath.

Try to take it all in a friend of mine had told me. As I was filing my lungs with fresh air I thought natural’s medicine would do it’s trick and cleanse my body, mind and soul. Those mountains were standing strong and there I was slowly learning to do the same. My ego did seem active which felt nice. I was doing what I was doing because it felt right. It felt that it was the right time for me and the right place for me to be. It was a nice feeling to not wish to be somewhere else or with someone else. Since I have been in Nepal I never had that feeling of wanting to be somewhere else and that alone as brought me so much inner peace. I never realize how hoping for things to be different was actually stealing my energy!

Everything felt simple and I felt at peace.

One of Sudesh’s friend had mention to me back in Kathmandu to pay attention to the villages on my way up to base camp. To see how people live and build things. So I was paying attention. As we stopped to show our trekking permit I turn around and saw this:

It took me a moment to realize that this was someone’s home.


We kept walking and this time it was uphill for quite a while. We ran into 5 friends from Holland that we had met in the plane to Lukla. At this time of the year there is less people here and you end up running in the same people multiple times. It’s fun everyone looks after each other and wishes the best on their journey. This group had made it to our next destination but had call it their last destination due to their lack of time to travel further up. It was nice to see them so happy. Unfortunately lots of people I know would not appreciate to be surrounded by the Himalaya’s while travelling with friends. Most people would either not come at all because they would not have the time to ‘make it to Base Camp’. The final destination is so… imbreded in our western mind. Not sure exactly who is responsible for this? lol probably our own mind! But to see this group happy of having done what certain would call ‘half of the hike’ so happy of spending time together and having seen this beautiful view felt so good. They were appreciating what they had and not what they were lacking. They had still came all the way here and enjoyed their hike without calling it a half hike! Good for them I thought!


As we were going up again I stopped many times to look the view (and to catch my breath!).

There is no rush. I heard the less you exert yourself the less chance of altitude sickness. That slower is actually better. Again ‘slowly slowing’. We met many porters on our way.

Some were going up other down. It is so impressive to see them. Whenever I felt that my backpack was heavy I would shortly after run into one porter and remind myself how lucky I was. Life is really about perspective sometimes. It is so easy to fall in the complaining trap. But there is something powerful in appreciating what you currently have and being grateful for it. I find being in Nepal I have touch a different depth of gratitude. I am not saying you have to be in Nepal to feel this but for me that’s where feeling grateful went from being a mental think to an actual feeling of gratefulness. 


As we were still walking up I started to struggle a little. I find for me the strong sun light eventually gets to me. I took one hiking pole out to help me hike. A friend had given me his poles before I left Ottawa. I told him: ‘you may not see these poles again’ and he smile and said that it was fine. It’s funny how connection with people as no distance. There I was in the middle of this mountain and remembering how my friend gave them to me and felt proud of me for maybe doing this hike. So I pulled one his pole out and smile and planted his pole on the Himalaya ground! 

That energy last me for a little bit. Than I thought I need some music! Music is such a cure for me. During my Buddhist course I was not aloud any music and that part was I think one of the most difficult for me. Ten days without music. So I took my phone out and first thing you know Ed Sheeran’s voice was playing in the Himalayas helping me making the last segment of today.

Than a sad song came on: Dean Lewis/Be Alright. Not sure what it did in my Ed Sheeran playlist. I started to think. About the past about a few things that have been hard and suddenly Sandesh said to me: No crying in nature! I burst out laughing!!! 😆 He for sure had read me really well! And thanks to him he didn’t let me get in that down spiral that the mind sometimes like to play. I change the song and immediately change my spirit. Why make this any harder I thought? It’s funny how the mind is sometimes.


Sudesh and I had a great teamwork when one felt the hike a little challenging the other one would talk about stuff. Finally people coming town told us we had 30 min to go to arrive at our destination for the day. So I told Sandesh we have 10 songs to go! 

And 11 songs later there we were! High five 🙌 my friend we did it!!! Tengboche elevation 3875 meters! 

Masala tea please!!! My favorite! It’s like my little reward when we get to our destination.

Little terrace !


After doing laundry we walked around the little town. We attended a ceremony in the buddhist monastery

(sorry no picture allowed but below you can see the entrance of the monastery).

Now time for some sweets!

Locals playing a little volley ball game!

At this time of the year there is less people trekking due to the rain season starting around mid-June. Like I mention in previous post at this time of the year clouds come and hide the mountain view in the afternoon. But you know how life is! Sometimes you actually appreciate things once you lose them so after losing the view in the afternoon you feel excitement when the sky suddenly clears up for a few minutes to let you see the mountains again.

(The ‘view’ with the clouds)

And the view without!


So tonight we will be sleeping in Thyangboche 3860 meters!

Day 4 👍 so far so good!

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